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How is food at Essenza in Milan

Via Marghera 34, Milano, MI, Italia
Call us anytime +39 02 498 6865
Open Mon/Fri 11:45-14:30 and 19:45-22:30, closed on Saturdays for lunch and Sundays. info@essenzaristorante.it

If it were a man, Eugenio Boer’s cuisine would seduce me. For several reasons: it is fearless, strong and intriguing. When you get to know it more you may not like it, or you may get crazy about it. For sure it will not leave you indifferent.

This is the impression I had at Essenza, restaurant that has opened at the begining of the year in via Marghera. Here is what you can eat there! 

THE HIGHLIGHT: the idea 

When I try a restaurant of this level, mostly for a special occasion as few nights ago, I like to experiment. Is there any better way of doing so than with a tasting menu? I tried the ‘Essenza della tradizione’ (Essence of tradition) one with five courses.

The welcome of the chef, a series Boer’s homages to his motherland and to the people of his life, sets a nice start. There is trout tartare with its eggs, Milanese risotto chip with its parmisan foam, madeleine with pesto and Taggiasche olives, fried beef stew wih sweet mustard and goat cheese macaron with paté. Not the usual amuse bouche, these are special to detail.

Essenza Restaurant A Place in Milan

The welcome of the chef | © Caterina Zanzi

We continue with a ‘uovo caduto nel prato’ (an egg fallen on the meadow), that is a low temperature boiled egg with potato and truffle, parmesan cream, beetroot powder and herbs. It is one of my favourites of the whole dinner, absolutely delicious. My dining companion chooses a ‘nel blu dipinto di blu’ (blue painting), an homage to the sea and Sardinian fregola, sea bass ceviche, sea scallop, anchovy and purple cabbage water, that turns into a blue color with some magic (and boiling).

Essenza Restaurant A Place in Milan

‘Uovo caduto nel prato’ | © Caterina Zanzi

Essenza Restaurant A Place in Milan

‘Nel blu dipinto di blu’ | © Caterina Zanzi

After it is the time of herring, duck, grape and ginger with duck foie gras. A taste that is too strong for me, but perfect for those who enjoy stronger flavours.

Essenza Restaurant A Place in Milan

Herring and duck| © Caterina Zanzi

As first course we choose tortellini with Mazara red prawns served in their lemon and mint flavoured consommé. It is a very good choice, well-balanced, what I describe as high quality comfort food, if you ever try making this at home it will not turn our this well, despite the apparent semplicity.

Essenza Restaurant A Place in Milan

Tortellini | © Caterina Zanzi

We get pampered with a dish that is not on the menu, another first course: spaghetti with clams ‘passing by Tamakatsu’, in my opinion the best dish of the whole dinner.

Essenza Restaurant A Place in Milan

Spaghetti with clams| © Caterina Zanzi

Among the second dishes we choose the baccalà with potatoes, sweet garlic and coffee.

Essenza Restaurant A Place in Milan

Baccalà | © Caterina Zanzi

The pre-dessert is a fancy sorbetto, followed by a blackberry, pistachio, white chocolate, caramel and basil dessert: exquisiteness! I forgot: at the end you will be served mini pastries…a delicacy!

Essenza Restaurant A Place in Milan

The dessert| © Caterina Zanzi

THE LOCATION: in a court in via Marghera

Essenza Restaurant A Place in Milan

The entrance | © Caterina Zanzi

The restaurant is located in a court in via Marghera, at the end of the street that leads to the red metro stop De Angeli. It is easy to reach and parking is easy to find. The entrance from the court is nice and it is worth mentioning the very kind personnel, always ready to explain every recipe.

THE ATMOSPHERE: intimate

Essenza Restaurant A Place in Milan

The interior | © Caterina Zanzi

The atmosphere is intimate and cozy, thanks to the fact that the restaurant is not too big, it counts about 30 covers. It is incredibly possible to have a conversation without raising your voice, with good classical music in the background and high ceilings. Guests, at least the night I went there, are of different ages and generally the atmosphere is not too courteous : just as much as it take to be elegant without showing off.

THE COST: for an important occasion

Essenza Restaurant A Place in Milan

Sorbetto | © Caterina Zanzi

Certainly Essenza is not the type of restaurant you go to when you run out of groceries. I suggest is for a special occasion, for a night when you are not tired and you are ready to fully taste chef’s cuisine. The tasting menus cost from 40 to 80 euros without wine, and for a dinner à la carte I believe you easily pass 50 euros.

ESSENZA
Via Marghera 34, Milan
+39 02 498 6865 | info@essenzaristorante.it
Open every day (Mon/Fri 11:45-14:30 and 19:45-22:30) except on Saturdays for lunch and Sundays

Read the original article on Conosco un Posto. All English versions are translated by Tamara Ilic.

Price:

Around 50€

Via Marghera 34, Milano, MI, Italia

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