I have told you about my passion for indoor markets in Milan (read here about five ravishing ones). Mercato del Suffragio, in the Porta Vittoria area, has been recently renovated and it has become a perfect place for groceries shopping or a quick snack (whether it is for breakfast, lunch, aperitivo or dinner) for the people of the neighborhood. And many believe that the pizza at the stall of the Davide Longoni bakery is one of the best in town. I went there for an aperitivo and here are my impressions.
At Mercato del Suffragio you can find a little bit of everything: fruit, vegetables, gelato, wine and fish to buy for home or to eat there, in a perfect ‘market with a kitchen’ style.
The highlights though are, hands down, bread and pizzas by Davide Longoni, one of the most famous Lombard bakers. And for a good reason: they keep baking non-stop several types of bread (among which the fantastic bread with raisins), pizzas, cakes and any other leavened goods you could think of, as croissants and pains au chocolat. There are several stalls with other goods too in case you want to buy your groceries there. I happened to be there one evening at aperitivo time and I ordered a glass of wine with a plate of cheese and salame!
Judging from the pictures the market looked way bigger. When you enter it you realize that the place is actually quite tiny: tables and stools surrounded by the food court. It has nothing to do with Mercato Metropolitano or with the market in Wagner, but the small dimension does possibly make it cosier. Mercato del Suffragio is in the Porta Vittoria area, close to Cinque Giornate, which is unfortunately not well-served by public transport. Good thing is you can easily find a parking spot!
The atmosphere is absolutely informal, also linked to the fact that there is no service at the tables and you can’t of course make reservations. The clientele was very varied when I went there and it was ranging from couples with dogs, families with kids and in general a very diversified group of styles and ages. I found the whole service to be a little bit messy and confused, I was left waiting for a long time and I had the feeling that the same was happening to the other tables too.
At Mercato del Suffragio the quality of food is high, therefore the price is at the same level. It doesn’t have the typical prices of a market, or better said it is has ‘Milanese market’ prices: a sandwich costs about 7 euros, the same for two slices of pizza, for aperitivo the figure rises to about 20 euros. I let you answer the question: isn’t it a little bit too much?
MERCATO DEL SUFFRAGIO
Piazza Santa Maria del Suffragio 2, Milan
+39 02 5518 4461
Open every day (except on Mondays) from 7.30am to 11pm
Read the original article on Conosco un Posto. This English version was translated by Tamara Ilic.