Like some have said, the debut of Gino Sorbillo exactly under the Madonnina has brought a piece of Naples to Milan. For how suggestive it may sound, it is not completely correct. The “moving” to Lombardy is not recent news.
A clear proof is given by my friends and collegues, and also by the crowd that stands waiting outside the brand new pizzeria in Largo Corsia dei Servi already from eight o’clock.
They don’t accept reservations and there are a lot of Milan residents puffing in the waiting line. May it be for the view of Largo Corsia dei Servi which is not the most thrilling one (even though the little piazza, between a galleria and the portici of Corso Europa is still in the very city center). May it be because it is only eight o’clock on a Sunday night and the little waiting room is already crowded. May it be for the signs hanging on the door (“400 pizzas until sell out” and “staff doesn’t know when you’ll get a free table”) that are all but welcoming.
We are three people and, although there are at least twenty people in line before us, we are seated very quickly. Inside everything is perfectly ochestrated. The guys are very fast and new pizzas keep coming out at an impressive speed.
Everything is so well organized that by the time I take off my coat the most diligent waiter of the century asks for our orders. The list is short, but I wouldn’t mind some more time to study the menu (while I was waiting outside I didn’t have the same opinion of course).
The menu is all about number 7. Seven starters (cheese, salami, fried food, fresellas, salads, rice and meat balls), seven beers (Nastro Azzurro, Karma Alvignano, Pilsner, Groisch, St. Stefanus, Grolsch Herfstbok and Peroni), and white and red wines, soft drinks and desserts. The pizzas are 11 instead (7+4).
The one I want is not available of course. I go for the one with fresh tomatoes, fiordilatte and bufala mozzarella, oil and basil. My friends opt for a classic Margherita and the variation with mozzarella di bufala.
The pizzas arrive and they are very good! The dough is excellent (maybe because of the organic flour, both white and whole wheat?), and so are the ingredients. Most of all the fresh tomatoes are very flavourful and the final result is not a watery pizza. The dough is supporting, the oil is top quality and the baking leaves me satisfied.
In the meantime I gave a quick look at the interior. We are at the groundfloor (the place has two floors), where there are more or less twenty tables, all quite close to another. The atmosphere, maybe thanks to the “all sold out” is actually very enjoyable.
The different pieces of furniture are spartan, as applies to a pizzeria, but warm and not kitch-ish as it can easily be found in other pizzerias. Customers don’t seem to mind being close to other tables: the target customers are very young and (for now) immune to the angry customer who scowls at other people.
At the end we spend 15 euros each for a beer and pizza. They are not the price level of Naples, but the pizza is the real Neapolitan one.
I must admit that I missed a final “wow”, though.
LIEVITO MADRE AL DUOMO
Address: Largo Corsia dei Servi 11, Milano
Phone: +39 02 4537 5930
Open every day at lunch (12:00/15:30) and at dinner (19:00/23:30) until they’ve reached their daily pizza quota.
Read the original article on Conosco un Posto. All English versions are translated by Tamara Ilic.